I'm an Addict. . .

Today, we are going to loosen our ties, take off the tin foil hats, and discuss a more light-hearted topic: Firearm Addiction.


I'm an addict.  Just about everyone reading this is an addict.  According to the Merriam-Webster Dictionary, addiction is "to devote or surrender (oneself) to something habitually or obsessively."  I tend to agree that I have surrendered myself to firearms habitually. . . I bring new ones home on a regular basis, I spend money on guns and ammunition that probably would be better served elsewhere, and there's just something about them that gives me that "warm and fuzzy" feeling.  Yeah, I'm an addict.


For some reason, I impulsively stop at the gun shop on the way home from work just about every Friday, and I compulsively spend more money on guns I don't need.  By my estimates, I've spent around $5,000 at my local gun shop in the past 18 months.  I'm currently in the process of paying off a pair of brand new Glock pistols, and I have a list of what's next. . . I see no end in sight.  I can try to avoid it, but there's always going to be that "slip" that dumps me right back into the vicious cycle.

But hey, I'm stimulating my local economy, right?  Yeah, that's true, I'm doing my part to help the locals out of this economic "slump."  Or at least that's how I manage to convince myself that "just one more" is okay.


So, I want to hear from you!  You've looked through the articles, you've seen the pictures of my collection, and you know I'm in too deep to just "give it up".  If you're on Facebook, you've seen more photos of my "hobby" (if you can even call it that).  I want to hear what you think, I want to know if you're as addicted as I am, and if you know of any cure.  I'm tired of being broke!  


Post your comments in the box below, join us on Facebook, or send us an email at thelowready@gmail.com .  


As always, thanks for checking in, and stay tuned, there are several more exciting articles in the works, including a sneak peek at a brand new segment about the new AR15 cartridge that's getting all the raves, .300AAC Blackout!

The Basics of Concealed Carry

I am not a lawyer.  I don't claim to be an expert in legal matters, and I never will.  Fact is, the laws change so often, and most of the time are so vague, that even if you do know the laws down to the letter, a judge could interpret them differently then you do, and everything you thought you knew could be turned on its head.

That said, this article isn't about the LEGALITY of concealed carry - it's up to YOU to comply with the law.  This article is about the mechanics of it, describing the different methods of concealing a pistol on your person, and showing you some of the different options you have.  Our focus is going to be mostly on holster types.

There are many different kinds of holsters out there.  So many, in fact, that we will only scratch the surface of what's available on the market today.  Just to provide an idea of what's available, here are a few types that I've seen:

• Outside the Waistband (OWB)
• Inside the Waistband (IWB)
• Shoulder Holsters
• Ankle Holsters
• Pocket Holsters
• Small of Back (SOB) Holsters
• Thigh Holsters

These are just a few, and they are the types I will be focusing on.  The list is not in any particular order, and I will try to explain the pros/cons of each type, as well as my personal preferences among those I've used.

Outside the Waistband (OWB)

I have at least one OWB holster for every pistol I carry.  This is by far the most common holster type you'll see, as there are several different types for different kinds of carry.  There are Duty Holsters, the type that you see police officers using, which usually offer different retention options, which we will talk about below.  I carry my 1911 in a "Speed Scabbard" type holster, which holds the pistol very close to the body, and offers a thumb break for retention.  I also have a few Duty Holsters, as I work part-time in armed security, but that is another topic for another day.  

• Pros:
• Easy access to pistol
• Available with a number of retention options
• Commonly available
• Comfortable
• Usually inexpensive when compared to other types
• Doesn't require larger pants
• Cons:
• Tends to "print" more than others
• Belt-slide types require partial removal of belt to take off

Inside the Waistband (IWB)

I have used a few different IWB holsters, mostly with my Springfield Armory XD45, which is my everyday carry pistol.  The one that I have used the longest is a DeSantis Intruder, which uses both Leather and Kydex in it's construction.  It is a bulkier holster than the OWB holsters I use, but it makes my .45 virtually disappear, as long as I'm wearing a shirt that is loose-fitting.  The XD45 is a thick pistol, which makes it hard to conceal normally, but the IWB holster is a great fit for it.  There are many different options available, from a number of different manufacturers.  This is a great way to carry, regardless of the type of pistol you carry.

• Pros:
• Conceals quite effectively
• Comfortable
• Commonly available in gun shops, but better deals and more options available online
• Easy to take off, usually slides into waistband and "hooks" to belt.
• Cons
• Tend to be more pricey (My DeSantis Intruder was upwards of $60)
• Not all are comfortable, the "universal" types tend to require frequent "adjusting"
• Require pants to be a size or two larger than normal to accommodate

Shoulder Holsters

There are a couple different types, the first we will speak of is the "horizontal" type.  This is what I carry my Beretta 92FS in, a Triple K leather shoulder rig.  This type doesn't use the standard "belt loop" attachment like many others do, which I find more comfortable, as it doesn't pull your belt up when you sit down.  I do enjoy carrying the Beretta in this manner, but this requires a little more planning to make it work.  First, it is going to require either a heavier shirt over top of the holster, or a jacket of some kind.  If I'm going to be outside most of the day, and it's cool enough to wear a medium to heavy jacket, I'll wear the shoulder rig.  This allows easier access than pulling a jacket overtop of the pistol's grip in an IWB or OWB holster, as you simply reach into the jacket, hit the thumb break, and pull the pistol out.  The drawback is if it's really cold, as access is only easier if you are able to leave the jacket unzipped/unbuttoned.  It's a pretty comfortable carry method, but you aren't going to forget it's there, especially if you are going to be moving around a lot, since the pistol is going to be bouncing against your ribs the whole time. 

The "vertical" type is the same, the difference being that the pistol is positioned with the barrel pointing downward, rather than to the rear.  I find the draw to be a little more uncomfortable in a vertical holster, as you have to pull the pistol straight up.  Most vertical holsters require the use of belt attachments as well, so you can actually remove the pistol without using both hands.

• Pros:
• Usually comfortable, but buying a quality holster is imperative.  Cheap holsters tend to be ill-fitting, and can cause neck and shoulder pain.
• Great for concealing when wearing a jacket.
• Many options available
• Cons:
• Quality holsters can be VERY expensive, with many fetching upwards of $150.
• Require a heavy shirt or jacket over top, which can be uncomfortable on warmer days.
• Horizontal holsters point pistol barrel to the rear, which makes some uncomfortable.
• Vertical holsters make drawing pistol somewhat awkward
• Lots of "trial and error" required to find a good fit
• Belt loop attachment points cause belt/pants to "ride up" when you sit down
• Harder to conceal than IWB and some OWB holsters, sometimes "prints", although most people won't notice.

Ankle Holsters

There are a number of ankle holsters on the market these days.  Ankle holsters are a great way to carry a Backup Gun (BUG), as they are virtually unnoticeable, usually comfortable, and even if/when they do "print", most people aren't looking at your ankles to see if you have a weapon anyway.  They do have their drawbacks, however.  First, if you wear tight-fitting pants, you won't be able to conceal an ankle rig.  You need to wear either loose-fitting or "boot-cut" pants to effectively conceal.  Second, while they do conceal quite well, depending on the weapon, they do require a significant amount of effort to draw, and it is nearly impossible to draw from an ankle holster while walking/running.  The difficulty to draw is my reason for saying this is great for a BUG, but I wouldn't want to carry my primary weapon in this manner.

• Pros:
• Can be comfortable if you find one that works well for you
• Conceals quite well, and even if it does print, most people won't notice
• Cons:
• Requires a small gun-You won't hide a full-size 1911 in an ankle rig
• Significantly more difficult to draw from than the others mentioned above
• Can be pricey, although most are less expensive than IWB holsters.
• Require loose-fitting or "boot-cut" pants to conceal.

Pocket Holsters

These are great for "pocket guns", for obvious reasons.  They place the weapon in easy reach, and you can have your hand on your weapon in a potential self-defense situation without anyone else noticing.  Drawing from a pocket holster is as easy as retrieving your car keys or a cell phone.  Pocket Pistols are usually smaller calibers, from .22LR to .380 (and even 9mm), although there are some .40S&W and .45ACP pistols that * technically* qualify as pocket guns.  These smaller caliber, small-frame pistols are often striker-fired or concealed-hammer semi-automatics, and are great for use as BUG's or when deeper concealment is required.  The main purpose of a pocket holster is to break up the shape of a pistol inside the pocket and cover the trigger to prevent loose objects from causing a negligent discharge.  Carrying a pocket gun by itself in a pocket is dangerous, as something as simple as a loose thread can catch the trigger, and cause the weapon to discharge.  Also, it's hard to conceal something that has the obvious shape of a gun in a pocket.  Most pocket holsters work twofold, by preventing objects from accessing the trigger area, and by making the pistol look less like a pistol, and more like a wallet or other flat, rectangular object.

• Pros:
• Conceals very well, making the gun look like a wallet in the pocket
• Allows easy access
• Helps prevent negligent discharge by covering the trigger (in most designs, although there are some "open trigger" pocket holsters out there)
• Usually rather inexpensive (around $15-$30, depending on construction and manufacturer)
• Cons:
• Small pistols are usually small calibers with limited round capacity
• Limits use of a pocket, so if you're like me and carry keys & knife in one pocket and cell phone in the other, you'll have to find another place for something.

Small-of-Back (SOB) Holsters

I don't personally own any of these, although I have carried in this type of holster in the past.  They can be comfortable, but they print pretty badly, and it is easier than you'd think for the weapon to become completely exposed without you noticing.  Something as simple as bending at the waist to pick something up from the floor, or crouching to get something off a bottom shelf in the supermarket, can cause your shirt to rise above the weapon, get caught behind the grip, and your weapon is completely exposed.  I didn't really care too much for this type of holster, simply because it required a lot more attention to the gun than I'd prefer.  

As far as ease of draw, it's pretty simple, although you do have to reach a little further to access your weapon than a traditional IWB, OWB, or pocket holster, and because you are reaching behind you, it seems a little more awkward than a shoulder rig.  There are a number of different SOB rigs available, including the standard horizontal (actually slightly angled), which holds the pistol with the butt pointing up.  They are also available in a vertical style, but unless you are wearing a long jacket (peacoat or trenchcoat), that style isn't going to conceal well at all.

• Pros:
• I guess it's "different" and can be considered "cool" by some.
• Cons:
• Places pistol directly over the spinal cord, which can cause serious injury (even paralysis) in the event of a hard fall.  Police officers don't even carry their handcuffs in that position anymore.
• Can become exposed without wearer's knowledge
• Rather expensive for quality holsters
• Weapon muzzle pointed to the side, which could cause issues when holstering weapon if a negligent discharge occurs.
• Again, muzzle awareness comes into play.  In the event of a self-defense situation, the wearer will most likely pass across some part of their body, be it their kidney or leg, in an effort to get the sights on target as fast as possible.  This could get ugly if there's a finger on the trigger. . . 
• Nearly impossible to draw when seated in a vehicle

Thigh Holster/Drop Leg Holster

This is not particularly effective for concealing a weapon.  At all.  This type of holster often protrudes farther from the body than a OWB holster, and due to the location on your leg, you would have to be wearing a long coat to conceal at all, and even then, it will print like crazy.  That said, if you prefer to openly carry your pistol (check local and state laws before attempting, and make sure you are well-versed in them), this is a great option for winter carry, as it is nearly impossible to conceal, and it eliminates any interference that may be caused by a jacket/coat.  Thigh holsters generally place the weapon right at the wearer's fingertips, so drawing is easy, and this type of holster can be quite comfortable to wear, again depending on the quality of the holster.  I used this type of holster extensively during my time in the Army, as it was the type of holster we were issued for our Beretta M9 pistols, which was used both when working as an MP on desk duty and in the field when on training exercises.  The holster I used then was a Blackhawk with Level II retention, it was comfortable to wear for extended periods of time, although I will admit that I'm no longer a fan of Blackhawk holsters, for reasons I will share in a future article.

• Pros:
• Great for open carry-No chance of hiding!
• Comfortable (if you find one that works well for you)
• Available with different retention options
• Easy to draw and re-holster without inadvertently pointing the weapon at anyone/anything else
• Many styles and options available
• Cons:
• Virtually impossible to conceal
• Expensive (quality drop leg holsters can cost upwards of $120)
• Snags on doorframes, fences, just about everything it possibly can
• Can limit range of motion in leg
• A nightmare when it comes to weapon retention
• Moves around a lot when running, which makes drawing on the move significantly more difficult. 

Well, there you have it!  I will be adding some pictures to this article at some point in the next several days.  We would love to hear your opinions on this topic!  You can leave comments below in the Comments Box, over on our Facebook Page, or by email at thelowready@gmail.com

As usual, thanks for reading!  Check back often for some exciting new articles that are in the works!

The Art of Reloading (And Why You Should Start!)

This article is going to be rather short and concise.  Anyone who considers themselves a true "firearms enthusiast" needs to consider reloading, if they aren't already set up to reload.  The greatest benefit of reloading your own ammunition is the cost savings.  You are re-using the brass that would otherwise be left at the range or tossed out, and simply replacing the primer, powder, and projectile with those of your choosing.  If you buy in large enough quantities, you can save more than 50% of what you are already spending on ammunition, which will allow you to shoot more often, and we all know that shooting more often translates directly into improving your skills behind the trigger.

Enough with the benefits, let's get to business.  The basic requirements to get started reloading are simple. You need a press, dies, powder measure, powder scale, brass (spent or new, it doesn't matter), and all of the "expendable" materials used in the actual process (powder, primers, and bullets).

There are plenty of kits out there to get you started, so I will go over the differences between the 3 main types of presses to begin.  These are Single Stage Presses, Turret Presses, and Progressive Presses.

Single Stage:  A Single Stage Press is usually the least expensive, but it also takes the most time to reload a round with this type.  The press has a single hole for a single die, and you can only complete one step in the reloading process at a time, after which you have to manually remove the die and insert the next die before continuing.  This may or may not be a drawback to you.  The benefits of a Single Stage Press over the others are mainly economical, as this is by far the least expensive type of press to buy, and is often recommended for those who are just starting to reload, since it is simple to operate.  Also, I've found that performing the same operation on a "batch" of ammunition requires more attention to detail, which aids in the learning experience.

As far as the cost goes, you can expect to spend between $100-$130 for a complete "kit" that includes a Single-Stage Press and everything else you'll need (except for dies) to get started.  A decent set of dies will cost right around $30-$40 more.  This is a great starting point, since you can upgrade everything one piece at a time, and for the most part, the individual components are compatible with other presses.  For example, the dies are going to be the same for either type of press, the only thing that changes is the way the presses function.

Turret Presses:  A Turret Press is the next step, and it improves the transition from one step in the reloading process to the next.  With a Turret Press, all of your dies are mounted on a rotating "turret," and to move to the next step, you need only rotate the turret to the next die, and you are good to go.  This changes the process a bit over a Single Stage Press, in that instead of performing the same step over and over on multiple shells, you can complete all of the steps, in order, on a single round without removing it from the press.  Conversely, you can continue to reload in the same way as you would with a single stage, it's really up to you.

If you were to start out with a Single Stage Press, you can expect to spend right around $100 for a nice Turret Press, or you can start out with a Turret Press Kit, bypassing the Single Stage completely, for between $115-$150.

Progressive Presses:  With a Progressive Press, things are much smoother.  Instead of manually rotating the dies, a baseplate rotates the cases that are being reloaded, and every time you pull the handle, the process automatically advances.  The beauty of a Progressive Press is the speed with which you are completing the cycle.  From start to finish, going from a piece of cleaned brass to a complete round requires only a few seconds and a few pulls of a lever.  Most of the higher-end Progressive Presses feature some nice accessories, like bullet feeders, case hoppers, primer feeders, and catch bins for the old primers and the complete rounds.  If you've ever seen a Single Stage press side-by-side with a Progressive press, it's astounding just how different they are.  The progressive press automatically feeds the brass, feeds the primers, measures the powder charge, feeds the bullet, and ejects the complete round after you finish doing the rest of the work.  This requires much less effort, since you are essentially loading multiple rounds simultaneously, and the only function that you are required for is ensuring that the dies are properly set, and pulling on the lever.  The rest of the procedure is handled by the press.

All of this added convenience and production power come at a price, however.  The press alone will run you in the neighborhood of $250-$300 and up, with some models selling for $600+.  If you were to buy a reloading kit that included a progressive press, you would be around $300-$350 for all of the components you'd need.


There are other options out there, including fully automated machines that will reload your ammunition without any interaction with you, but for a setup like that, you're looking at dropping considerable amounts of money, upwards of $3,000.  It is not unheard of, nor difficult, to spend thousands of dollars on reloading supplies and equipment.

Either way you look at it, however, reloading not only saves you some money, but it allows you greater control over the type of ammunition you feed through your firearms, and it allows you to "tweak" the different variables with great precision to increase accuracy, performance, and reliability.

Stay tuned, we will be sharing a review of the Lee Anniversary Single-Stage Press Kit within the next couple of weeks, we have been putting it through it's paces for a while, and we are hoping to have some more information very soon.

AR15 Pistols

Okay, so let’s talk about one of the most fun, loud, and obnoxious things out there. I don’t care if your name is Paul, you wear your hat crooked, and you are the life of the party every Saturday night. You will still never be more fun, loud, or obnoxious than an AR-15 Pistol (aka MI Pistol or AR Pistol). For legal purposes, I will clarify that AR-15 Pistols are legal in the state of Michigan as long as they adhere to a few guidelines, the biggest being it cannot have a stock. So to say the least, we are reviewing a weapon that is legal in our state. Please review your state laws if you have interest in this type of weapon before making plans to build or purchase.

To start off, there are a great deal of benefits to having one of these little guys. One of them is the carry facet. I know it may sound ludicrous to carry one of these things, but since they are required to be registered as pistols in the state of MI they receive all of the same rights and privileges as a pistol. I, personally, every now and then carry my AR Pistol under my knee length trench coat with a BlackHawk single-point sling. With either my 7” or 7.5” barrel I can still carry this thing without it being noticed. With its legal versatility as a pistol you can also use it as a “truck gun” or in my case a “four-door sedan gun”. This also makes it easier to take it to the range since you can keep it loaded.

The next best thing about AR Pistols is shooting them. Getting the right sights for them is quite the pain, which we will discuss later, but target/scenario shooting is a blast, quite literally. If shooting one handed, which makes even the scroniest of a man feel like Gaston, you do have a liberal amount a muzzle lift, even with special muzzle brakes. Yet, the weight of the gun and AR-15 trigger pull does allow you enough time to fire somewhat rapidly and still be on target. You aren’t shooting a tournament 1911, but for one-handed shooting, with a weapon not originally designed for one-handed shooting, it does fairly decent. Now, two-handed shooting makes you feel a little like Tony Montana. I can’t tell you how many times I have introduced mine by saying, “Say hello to my little friend.” I know, I know, he used an A2 style M-16 with a M203, but I can’t help myself.

Recoil wise, they are basically like shooting a short AR-15, which ironically enough is what they are. Accuracy wise, I would say at twenty-five yards they are as accurate as any other handgun I have fired from a standing position. I do not know how these weapons perform at long distances. Mainly because I treat it as a pistol and I would not call upon my pistol to make one-hundred yard shots unless I was left without the option of using my rifle. One day I may see how it does with long range shots, but then again, what did I buy my LR-308 for? I my opinion, in a tactical scenario these things work best at providing short range suppressive fire, but one can’t forget about the long range capabilities of the 5.56.

With these weapons having all of their good sides, why don’t we take a stroll down to the bad and the ugly. First of all, price, price, and price. Without giving you the rundown of a parts list and prices, which don’t fret, I will waste your time with that later, I will just say that for a basic model using new parts you are going to spend about $850 to build an AR Pistol. For those of you who build AR-15s, myself included, that is clearly more than building a full size rifle. However, I must say that building an AR Pistol, like building an AR-15, will in most cases save you money, which leads me to my next point.

Getting the chance to build one of these is also a great experience, but frustrating at the same time. I have built ARs before, but AR Pistols have a little more complexity to them. The hand guard is somewhat of a concern for 7” barrels. The 10.5” barrel use carbine length gas tubes and hand guards so those are not a problem, but the shorter ones require slightly more expensive parts. On the AR Pistol upper I built I used a Yankee Hill Machine Pistol Length Quad Rail Free-float Handguard. This added enough weight to keep the pistol somewhat balanced and made my sight conundrum slightly easier to solve. The biggest issue with sights for an AR Pistol is that no manufacture has made AR sights that work as well as standard pistol sights. My choice, or rather choices, ended up being an EOTech EXPS3 on my Rock River Arms upper and MagPul flip sights for my Palmetto State Armory/DPMS upper. Both have worked out great so far as sights and serve their purpose for the pistol they are on.

Along with finding the right sights to fit your purposes, there are other issues to be addressed in the construction of an AR Pistol. These are functioning dilemmas. Now, that is not to say that AR Pistols are inherently problematic, so don’t get it twisted. However, there are problems that should be addressed. First and foremost is the buffer tube. If you take your collapsible AR stock, pull down on the adjustment lever, and remove it you will have a well functioning AR pistol buffer tube (although one must consider the possible legal pitfall of having a buffer tube that could so readily accept a stock). Ace makes a full length buffer tube that has worked flawlessly with my AR pistol. The problem comes with the shorter tubes that some manufactures have created. These look better and make the AR Pistol much shorter, but have been reported to have many feeding issues due to the short amount of travel that the bolt carrier has in between shots. The easiest way to put it is that the more your buffer tube meets the standard length, the more reliable it will be.

The next issue is that of business end of the barrel: the muzzle brake. Many people will swear that the 7” barrels have feeding issues due to the lack of backpressure created from the short length of the barrel. Although I have used a standard “birdcage” A2 style flash hider with no feeding issues, I had looked into a flash hider that would work to solve three problems: low backpressure, high decibels, and muzzle flash. The device I used was the DPMS Levang Compensator. I won’t give this item the same be-all end-all rating that others have because every now and then you do get some muzzle flash and it didn’t seem to “send the sound downrange” to the high extent that others have reported, but with it I haven’t had any feeding problems and the muzzle flash is not as extreme as with other flash hiders. For $30, I won’t down-talk the item as it performed adequately. So far, nothing short of a silencer will tame the excessive roar of these weapons, but with hearing protection, from my perspective as the shooter, it didn’t sound any louder than your standard AR-15 while wearing proper hearing protection.

In short, considering the good, the bad, and the ugly, AR Pistols are in my opinion great additions to any gun collection. With their legal flexibility they make great vehicle weapons as well as intimidating carry pieces whether you decide to CC or OC. Keep in mind, some states have odd laws about these weapons, MI’s is odd, but benefiting to gun owners like me, but if one’s state does not frown on them they will make their owner quite happy. They have always been of interest to other shooters at the gun range and have made a few of my buddies quite jealous. Below you will find the list of parts that went into build each AR Pistol and feel free to email us with any question you may have about your AR Pistol build. We may not know everything, but if you are just starting out with your build we can most likely get your questions answered and get you to the range.

• Ace Pistol Buffer Tube
• DPMS Bolt Carrier Assembly
• DPMS Crush Washer
• DPMS Levang Compensator
• DPMS Pistol Length Gas Tube
•  DPMS Railed Gas Block
• DPMS Trigger Kit
• DPMS 7” Barrel
• Palmetto State Armory Assembled Upper Receiver and Charging handle
• Rock River Arms Stripped Lower Receiver
• Rock River Arms Upper Receiver Assembly (2^nd AR Pistol upper)
• Yankee Hill Machine Pistol Length Quad Rail Free-float Handguard

First Look: Kimber Eclipse Target II

It's been mentioned before, it will be mentioned again, I'm sure: I'm not made of money.  Many of my firearms are purchased from the "Used" rack at the local gun shop, although I do spend a lot of time perusing the "Way Out of My Price Range" rack, dreaming about those beauties under the glass that I will never be able to afford.

Until now.

After looking through the glass on the "New" rack, I noticed that a particular firearm I had been dreaming about had become MIA.  I felt a knot in my stomach, knowing that the pistol I had asked to hold no less than a half dozen times in the past would never be mine.  I then hear a familiar voice say, "Nick!   You've GOT to see this!"  I walked over to where my friend was standing, and peer through the glass on the "Used" rack. . . The Kimber was sitting there, in all her glory, peering back at me, this time with a VERY attractive price tag.  

As the title states, the Kimber in question is the Eclipse Target II model.  The one in my collection is as it was originally outfitted from Kimber, including the fully adjustable bar-and-dot Meprolight night sights.  

First impressions are very good, the pistol is of very strong construction, has a very attractive design, while still maintaining the classic 1911 look.  The "II" designation indicates that an internal firing pin block is present, which is deactivated by the grip safety.  The factory trigger pull is set at 4.5 pounds, and is very smooth.  The sight radius is 6.8", compared to 6.3" for the Beretta 92FS previously reviewed here.    Although this pistol has yet to make it to the range, a range day is in the works, and a full Range Report will be coming soon.

Final Word: This is a very nice pistol, although very pricey (Price tags upwards of $1,300 are not unheard of for a new example).  Construction is solid, the weapon is very well-equipped, and it bears the "Kimber" name, which is known for producing a quality pistol.

First Look: Beretta 92FS 9mm

First things first, this is one of the firearms I've wanted since I first saw it.  When I was in Basic Training in the U.S. Army, this weapon was more than an issued sidearm, it represented progress.  I was issued my first Beretta M9 during the first week of Military Police training.  I learned to shoot with the M9, ate, drank, and slept with it, and qualified "Expert" with it every time.  The Beretta M9 (92F) has been in service with the U.S. Armed Forces since 1985, when it replaced the M1911 45ACP sidearm.

Putting the past behind us, I will focus on the strengths and weaknesses of the 92FS, and in a little bit, I will mention the differences between the 92FS and the M9 that is issued to the U.S. Armed Forces.

The first thing one notices when handling the Beretta 92FS for the first time is it's weight.  It's remarkably light for an all-metal weapon, weighing in at just over 2 pounds when unloaded.  The weapon comes packaged with two 15-round magazines, two bore brushes (one brass, one nylon) and a cleaning rod, a gun lock, and what is called an "Anti-Crush Device" inside the blue plastic case.  The case itself is very weak, and the "Anti-Crush Device" is a simple plastic cup that goes inside the case, that inspires a "What is this for?" response.

Once the initial "newness" of the 92FS wears off, and you start looking closely at it, a myriad of features become apparent.  One of my personal favorites is related to the safety/decocking system.  The decocking lever actually rotates the firing pin connector upwards into the slide.  Also noticeable on the top of the slide is the "block", which prevents the hammer from connecting with the firing pin unless the trigger is pulled, and the locking block rises into position.  This is a unique set of safety features when compared with the other pistols we have reviewed here, but I believe it is a strong design.

The trigger pull is rather heavy on this pistol.  The initial "Double Action" trigger pull is around 14 pounds, and the subsequent "Single Action" trigger pull is about 6 pounds.  When compared to the Sig Sauer P220 we reviewed earlier (See First Look: Sig P220 .45ACP), the Beretta's trigger pull is slightly heavier.  The Sig's trigger pull was 12 pounds DA, 4.5 pounds SA.

The fit and finish of the 92FS is very impressive given the Beretta's $649 suggested price tag.  There is little lateral play in the slide, the trigger pull is smooth despite it's resistance.  The finish is flawless, and the warranty is decent.  That said, I feel I should cover one thing that many people don't know about the Beretta warranty: It can be extended from the standard 1-year warranty to a 3-year warranty, simply by returning the registration card to an authorized Beretta dealer, or mailing it directly to Beretta, within 30 days of purchase.  It's worth it to fill out the card and return it.

I know that a picture is worth a thousand words, but I didn't have time to take some pictures of the Beretta before it made it's way to it's new home for the night.  When I write our next "Range Report" segment, I'll include pictures of the Beretta.  I will also add some to this post at the same time.


There is more to come, so be sure to check in frequently for updates!



UPDATE:  3/3/2012
Photos added, pistol is exactly as it was during the original review, with the exception of the grips, which were replaced recently.

First Look: Smith & Wesson M&P45 4.5" Barrel

Had it not been for the introduction of the 2011 1911 polymer frame for the 1911 pistol I would say that Smith and Wesson’s M&P45 is the answer for shooters looking for a polymer 1911 with all the feature of the polymer pistol. From its manual safety (optional on some models) and slide lock positions to its relative felt recoil, which is very reminiscent of a 1911, every shot fired made me believe I was holding the polymer answer to the legendary 1911 pistol. The M&P45 utilizes a striker fire system, which seems to be the trend for new pistols, and makes good use of a firing pin block. In my opinion, all pistols should be equipped with this as an added safety measure.


The trigger pull on this bad boy does have a slight flaw, in my opinion; the trigger is equipped with a trigger safety—which follows the decorum of polymer pistols—that engages in the middle of the trigger when the lower section is pulled. This has never caused any problems during firing in my experience, but its feel and pull is not as smooth as the trigger pull of other pistols in its class. The issue inherent in this trigger design is that if you have your finger too high on the trigger when you squeeze it, it will not engage the safety device and the trigger will not budge. However, with proper practice—which every shooter should engage in—this should not be a problem. This firearm had been my primary carry gun for a few months, as well as the weapon I practiced with the most, and I never had this happen to me. On a side note about the trigger if you are a person like me, who understands the risk of trigger bounce or hammer follow in 1911's, then this gun is for you.

The slide makes use of slide serrations, which provide great contact with the hand, and not once was I unable to draw the slide back on this weapon. Its pull-back also very closely resembles that of a 1911 with the exception of the slide serrations. A possible drawback to these serrations is that they do have somewhat of a sharp nature, and if the slide was not gripped properly it could slide forward and be a little rough on ones hand. This was never a problem I experienced, but it is something to consider.

The firearm can be field-stripped like just about any other modern pistol on the market: draw slide back, lock slide in place, flip down take-down lever, allow the slide to go forward, and remove it from the frame. I’m sure it’s safe to say you know how to handle the rest from there. The internals for the pistol are very simple and easy to work with for those of us who enjoy full take down and cleaning. There are even kits you can buy, and easily install yourself, that will allow you to take a few pounds off of the trigger pull. In regard to this I would recommend not tampering too much with its design. Form my experience with this weapon it has been designed to be a very sturdy carry, service, and duty gun (you can use whichever of those apply to you). With its 1911-esgue design and feel this would be a great pistol for anyone who has sworn by the time-tested designed on the 1911 pistol. A 1911 being the pistol I learned to shoot with, I am very partial to firearms that resemble the legendary gun, so needless to say I was drawn to it immediately. This is a firearm that will serve its owner well for years to come.